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The Lake District
National Park
by Paddy
Dillon
It is generally
accepted that the concept of 'national
parks' dates from 1810, when the poet
William Wordsworth published his 'Guide
to the Lakes'. In it, he said that "persons
of pure taste throughout the whole island,
who, by their visits (often repeated)
to the Lakes in the North of England,
testify that they deem the district
a sort of national property, in which
every man has a right and interest who
has an eye to perceive and a heart to
enjoy."
The establishment
of the Lake District National Park was,
however, a long time coming, and the
world's first national park was created
in 1872 at Yellowstone in America -
and even then only after much lobbying
by the visionary Scotsman John Muir.
Legislation for the establishment of
national parks in Britain was dogged
by controversy and the outbreak of World
Wars, but finally, the Lake District
National Park was designated in 1951.
There are major
differences between national parks in
Britain and national parks in other
parts of the world. Throughout the world,
national parks are generally stateowned
properties, where the state has effective
control over access, recreation and
conservation. There may be a permit
system in operation, and when a certain
number of people have entered the park,
access is denied to all others. In Britain,
the national parks are not state-owned,
and generally access, recreation and
conservation are dealt with under planning
legislation. There seems to be no limit
to the numbers who can get into a national
park - subject only to traffic jams!
In many parts of
the world, and also according to the
International Union for the Conservation
of Nature, British national parks are
not recognised as national parks at
all. The nearest national park to Britain
is actually in the Wicklow Mountains
in Ireland, and beyond to the Killarney,
Burren, Connemara and Glenveagh National
Parks. In Ireland, national parks are
completely state-owned and controlled,
and are consequently quite small as
the state has only limited purchasing
powers. Furthermore, the first national
park to be established in Ireland, near
Killarney, was in 1932 - nearly twenty
years ahead of Britain.
It is true that
some people travel all over the world,
and then return to the English Lake
District and declare that it has no
equal. David Bellamy and others would
say that it is being 'loved to death'
and it is the case that increasing visitor
pressure is causing problems. The true
countryside lover would visit in the
quiet seasons, treading with care and
contributing to the upkeep of the region.
There are many organisations lobbying
for conservation, but bodies such as
the Conservation Volunteers are the
ones you would generally see out in
all weathers trying to repair the damage
already inflicted.
The National Trust
also put work teams out on the fellsides,
and it is interesting to see the history
of the Lake District National Park and
that of the National Trust running side
by side. The National Trust is a century
old, and owes its very existance to
Lakeland devotees such as Canon Hardwicke
Rawnsley and Octavia Hill, as well as
to the support and property given to
them by people such as Beatrix Potter.
The National Trust owns, or at least
leases and manages, a quarter of the
area of the national park. The National
Trust bought Brandelhow Woods near Derwent
Water in 1902. One of the things still
confusing many visitors are the terms
National Park and National Trust. A
national park is essentially a protected
landscape, while the National Trust
is a charity dedicated to protecting
landscapes and historic properties.
It's an uphill struggle,
but national parks are slowly getting
to grips with the fact that by their
very existance they are drawing people
into areas where they sometimes cause
problems. Some hill farmers would tell
you that the wrong two words were chosen
- 'national' (which makes people think
they own the area) and 'park' (which
makes people think they can do what
they like). There is no problem with
visiting an historic house - you pay
a fee on entry and from that fee any
essential maintainence work is covered.
When you walk the hills, you do so free
of charge, but someone has to foot the
bill for any damage this causes. It
is in everyone's interest to contribute
towards the protection and preservation
of our protected areas, for our own
immediate use, and for the use of those
following after us.
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Around The Lake
District National Park
Many years ago,
the most sensible way to reach the Lake
District (before anyone coined that
term) would have been by the 'oversands'
route taken by the mail coaches from
Lancaster. In effect, this route is
still possible, though not from Lancaster,
and only in the company of the 'Crown
Guide' who will lead you safely across
the quicksands and tidal channels. Proceeding
northwards, you would pass former coppice
woods which were once cut for charcoal
manufacture, and then you would reach
extensive forested areas around Windermere
and Coniston. Beyond this - the Lakeland
Fells in all their splendour.
It all rather depends
on what you are looking for, as the
Lake District seems to have something
for everyone. It is well known for its
exceptional range of long and short
walks, and virtual freedom to roam in
the higher fells. Here you will find
all of England's highest mountains,
and many other heights which prove to
be quite easily accessible. Long distance
walkers can pass through the area from
Ulverston to Carlisle following the
Cumbria Way, and there are plenty of
other suggested longer walks.
Casual strollers
can sample a short stretch of lakeshore
path beside most of the larger lakes,
and for a little more effort they can
climb uphill in search of the more elusive
tarns which are sprinkled across virtually
every fell. There are easy, waymarked
trails through the established forests
at Grizedale and Whinlatter, as well
as level walks such as the Keswick Railway
Path.
You can build a
particular theme into your explorations,
such as searching for places associated
with William Wordsworth - even to the
extent of using his oft-republished
'Guide to the Lakes'. There were the
other 'Lake Poets' such as Coleridge,
Southey and De Quincey - the latter
one actually writing 'Recollections
of the Lakes and Lake Poets'. Start
trailing around after any or all of
these and you will come across Beatrix
Potter, John Ruskin, Arthur Ransome,
Hugh Walpole, Charles Dickens and Harriet
Martineau - who wrote 'The Complete
Guide to the English Lakes'.
Knowing which guidebooks
to select from the groaning bookshelves
depends largely on what you are looking
for, as there are dozens added to the
bookshop shelves every year. The walking
guides may well be dominated by the
best-selling Alfred Wainwright, but
prospective readers are advised that
these are horribly dated. Bookshop browsing
is best reserved for a rainy day, but
with a bit of luck you won't get too
many of those. You can pick up 'rivetting
facts' as you travel around - such as
the fact that Seathwaite is the wettest
place in England!
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Places To Visit
Brockhole:
The Lake District National Park Visitor
Centre. Ideal place to go to find
out all about the history and heritage
of the national park. The centre is
within an old house set in wonderfully
wooded grounds with lakeshore access
to Windermere.
Windermere
Steamboat Museum: Plenty of nostalgia.
Old steamboats in various states of
repair, including many which are still
lakeworthy. Swallows and Amazons fans
can see some memorabilia associated
with the childrens' adventure stories.
Bridge House:
By the main road in Ambleside. This
tiny house stands on a bridge and
is a one-up-one-down place owned by
the National Trust. The building has
had many uses, and a cobbler once
reared several children in it!
Hawkshead Grammar
School: Where Wordsworth was educated.
Hawkshead itself is delightfully cluttered,
and you should try and locate Ann
Tyson's Cottage, where Wordsworth
lodged while he attended the grammar
school.
Hill Top:
Beatrix Potter's house at Sawrey,
though she hardly had time to live
there. Has had to be strengthened
to cope with the sheer number of visitors.
Beatrix Potter left land, farms and
flocks of Herdwick sheep to the National
Trust on her death.
Dove Cottage:
Just off the main road at Grasmere,
next to the Wordsworth Museum. Once
lived in by Wordsworth from 1799 to
1813, and later by De Quincey. Restored
and kept largely in the manner that
Wordsworth would have kept it.
Rydal Mount:
Another of Wordsworth's homes, uphill
from the main road at Rydal. The poet
lived here from 1830 to 1850 - the
year in which he died. Also visit
the family grave in St. Oswald's churchyard
in Grasmere.
Pencil Museum:
Just on the edge of Keswick - and
a very off-beat museum. Tells the
history of pencil manufacture from
the days of Borrowdale graphite and
local wood, although the materials
to continue the industry are now all
imported.
Moot Hall:
In the centre of Keswick. Notable
for its Tourist Information Centre,
and evening slide shows about the
Lake District. Also the starting and
finishing point for the gruelling
Bob Graham Round, covering many major
Lakeland Fells in a set time limit.
Seatoller Barn:
An interesting building in the tiny
hamlet of Seatoller. Exhibits tell
of the life and work of Borrowdale,
which is largely based around sheep.
The distinctive Herdwick is the indigenous
breed, and this is being encouraged
by the National Trust.
Raveglass &
Eskdale Railway: Anyone who wouldn't
enjoy a ride on this delightful narrow
gauge railway along the length of
Eskdale deserves to be barred from
entering the Lake District. Not just
a 'toytown' ride, but a genuine public
transport service for the dale.
Muncaster Castle:
Hidden behind extensive growths of
rhododendron near Ravenglass. The
castle itself is interesting, but
there is also the owl-breeding programme
carried on there, and nearby Muncaster
Mill to visit.
Hardknott Roman
Fort: Guarding the Hardknott Pass
at the head of Eskdale, in view of
Scafell Pike - England's highest mountain.
The partially restored ruins fire
the imagination, and you can find
traces of the old Roman road crossing
the pass.
Brantwood:
On the shores of Coniston Water. Once
the home of John Ruskin and now dedicated
to explaining about his life and work.
He was a notable art critic and social
reformer. His grave is located in
St. Andrew's churchyard in Coniston.
Ruskin Museum:
Situated in the village of Coniston.
Small, and not entirely dedicated
to Ruskin. Has a few items of local
interest and a few things associated
with the ill-fated Bluebird water-speed
record attempt in which Donald Campbell
was killed.
Grizedale Forest
Visitor Centre: For plenty of
background information about the extensive
forest, and what you can see and do
there. Many interesting sculptures
have been created in forest settings,
if you would like to discover them.
Lakeside &
Haverthwaite Railway: Connects
with the Windermere Steamboat services
at Lakeside, which was all once a
part of the Furness Railway empire,
based on distant Barrow-in-Furness.
Another place to fill handkerchiefs
full of nostalgia.
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| Short Walks
to Scenic Spots
Friars Crag:
On the shores of Derwent Water and easily
reached from the centre of Keswick.
Rated very highly by John Ruskin, whose
nanny took him there when he was very
young. There is a monument to Ruskin
and a splendid view of the fells beyond
the lake.
Buttermere:
The complete shoreline walk takes only
a couple of hours and is accomplished
from a lovely little village set beneath
towering fells. On a calm day there
may be wonderful reflections in the
lake - especially towards the head of
the lake.
Stanley Force:
Tucked away in a ravine in Eskdale,
with easy access from the Ravenglass
& Eskdale Railway. The powerful
fall plunges into the ravine, which
is overhung by trees and clothed in
an interesting selection of ferns.
Tarn Hows:
Extremely popular, so visit it in the
quiet seasons. In winter it may freeze
over and allow you to skate across its
surface. Formerly, there were three
small pools of water, but a small dam
raised the level to the feature you
see today.
Tilberthwaite:
Off the main road between Coniston and
Langdale. Features include a fine waterfall
in Tilberthwaite Ghyll, and a nearby
disused quarry with a flooded lower
section and a man-made cave at Hodge
Close which is known as The Cathedral.
Blea Tarn:
There are many Blea Tarns around the
Lake District, and this one is perched
on the gap in-between Little Langdale
and Great Langdale. There is easy access
from the roadside, and yet you feel
as if you are among the higher fells.
Grasmere:
Walk around the village, then walk around
the lake. Not all the shoreline has
access, but there are some good stretches
away from the village, and you could
climb onto the higher-level Loughrigg
Terrace for a fine view back towards
the village.
Troutbeck:
An amazing and straggling village off
the main road from Windermere to Patterdale.
Many fine 'statesmen's' farmhouses,
plus two interesting pubs. A great place
to enquire into the vernacular architecture
of the Lake District.
Aira Force:
"That torrent hoarse" is how
Wordsworth described it. Lies off the
road between Patterdale and Pooley Bridge.
Walkways, steps and footbridges allow
you a close-up view of the fine waterfalls
in this rocky ravine.
Keswick Railway
Path: Runs between Keswick and Threlkeld.
Mostly a level path, as it was created
from the former railway line. Navvy
huts now serve as shelters, and there
are a series of information boards along
the way. Many fine 'bowstring' bridges
to cross.
This article originally
appeared in Countrylovers Magazine in
Spring 1996
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