Round the World by Bike - a long distance journey around our planet.

Al Humphreys

 

 



"I am the one and only" - Chesney Hawkes

Cycling with four other people has been so different to riding alone. Not better, not worse, just different.

In many ways I found the south of Ethiopia to be like a holiday. With a group of five people there is no security risk and no problems with leaving your bike whilst you shop or eat or go to the toilet. You have practical support with breakages and repair, enormous moral support in the face of 200 staring people, relief from monotony as you talk away the long, dull cycling hours, company in the evenings, fun, laughter and evening beers.

But cycling en masse deprives you of the days of silence, the intensity of experience, the unavoidable (and ultimately unmissable) interactions with locals and the fears and tears and frustrations of being alone in the heart
of Africa. The character building as my Dad would say!
In conclusion: if you want to have fun then travel in a group. If you're not after that, stick by yourself.
-----
One sad man and his football team.
"we're gonna stay with you for ever; at least until the world stops going round" - Leeds United anthem


It has been a long season. I remember well the first home match for Leeds United way back in August. A fantastic afternoon of released anticipation, excitement and high hopes for the campaign ahead.
But after that I remember nothing. Because now I am south of the equator in Kenya. I left home after that first home match (the timing is not a coincidence) to cycle around the world. I have missed all the highs and lows
and real lows of the last 9 months at Leeds United, only occasionally catching up with the news on the Internet.

Yet despite missing the action Leeds have still been prominent in my life this year. Pedalling through Africa I never know (nor need to know) what day it is, except on Saturdays. Saturday is the only day of the week I remember
(this is useful: Saturday is now the day I take my weekly malaria pill). On Saturdays I fill the long, hard hours in the saddle wondering how Leeds are getting on, wondering who is in the team today (I hope Smithy's playing),
wondering about injuries, suspensions and league positions etc. etc.
These Saturday daydreams focus my world, whisk me away from Africa for a while and help spur me on down the endless road. So thank you Leeds: I'm half a world away now, but Saturday is still the beautiful day.

Look out for my report of the World Cup as experienced in Africa - Coming soon to this web-site!
-----
Don't tell Everyone!

Think of Ethiopia. What images form in your mind? Ethiopia has a serious, serious image problem so let me tell you about the Ethiopia that I recently experienced. You will be surprised.

Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile river and one of those special places on the planet that you can spot instantly on any map of the world or photograph from space. It is a great place to nurse a cold beer (25p a pint) amongst lush tropical banana trees, watch hippos on the lake and flocks of pelicans and exotic hornbills swooping in to roost at sunset. Nearby are the Blue Nile Falls (locally known as 'the water that smokes'), second only to Victoria Falls in Africa's hierarchy of aquatic majesty. Virtually tourist free (as is all of Ethiopia, such are people's preconceptions), you feel as though you are the first to ever lay eyes on the spectacle.

Further downstream the Nile carves through the Blue Nile Gorge- almost a mile deep and another unmissable sight.
The Rift Valley witnessed the birth of humanity. Along the valley is strung an ageless chain of lakes, beautiful and stark and home to a breathtaking variety of birds and wildlife.

The history of Ethiopia is unique, one of the few nations of the World whose history stretches from the dawn of man to modern times without ever being properly conquered. This adds many unusual quirks to the country- it has it's own language, a complex alphabet and even a different calendar (it is 1994 in Ethiopia now). The food is different but tasty: roast meats and vegetables, spices and lots of chillis all served together on top of the huge communal flat bread (njera) that accompanies most meals.

The highlight of the highlights of Ethiopia's history is Lalibela, a genuine Wonder of the World. Over 800 years ago the 11 monolithic churches of Lalibela were hewn from solid rock. Today they are as awesome and deeply atmospheric as ever. Samuel Johnson wrote about the Giant's Causeway that it was "worth seeing, but not worth going to see". Lalibela was definitely worth seeing but the 'going to see' was even more splendid- the mighty silence of one of Africa's grandest mountain ranges, small villages unchanged since the days of Lalibela's creation, men ploughing the earth with oxen and cracking the air with their whips.

Living costs in Ethiopia are extremely low- your money will go a long way here- good meals for £1, cheap flights, souvenirs and hotels that range from 50p all the way up to complete luxury. The Sheraton in Addis Ababa is one of the very top hotels in the World. Accommodation there is certainly not cheap, but early evening drinks cost only £1- not bad for a setting of extraordinary style and decadence. The perfect way to toast the memories of a fascinating holiday.

You will find for yourself that Ethiopia does have a terrible image problem in the UK. It is a beautiful country, richly historical and very, very different. Get here and see for yourself before everyone else does!

IMPORTANT INFORMATION:
There are several travel companies arranging travel in Ethiopia, from budget overland trips upwards. All tastes and budgets are catered for.Internal travel is easy thanks to a cheap and efficient airline network.
Kenya is right next door- why not tag a safari onto the end of your holiday? You should consult a doctor before travelling. A visa is needed (see www.travcour.com). BA (and others) fly to Addis Ababa several times a week from Heathrow (approx £500).

Karrimor - Supporters of the Round the World by Bike