Challenge 8000 - The Makalu Diaries

Tuesday 25 May 1999

NEW BRITISH RECORD

ALAN HINKES, UK'S TOP HIGH-ALTITUDE MOUNTAINEER, SUMMITS FIFTH HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD. MAKALU (8470m) - ONLY BRITON TO HAVE CLIMBED ELEVEN OF THE WORLD'S FOURTEEN HIGHEST MOUNTAINS.

Alan Hinkes, the UK's top high-altitude mountaineer, has reached the summit of Makalu (8470m) the fifth highest mountain in the world and a harder climb than Everest, and has set a new British record by pushing his total to eleven out of the world's fourteen highest mountains.

Alan has set himself one of the most challenging tasks for a mountaineer, to climb all fourteen of the world's highest mountains which are all in the Himalaya or Karakoram. He has called this Challenge 8000. He has now climbed eleven of these mountains including Everest and K2.

Alan set off from high base camp at 5700m on Thursday 20 May climbing to camp 1 at 6500m for the first night. On Friday he climbed as high as camp 2 at Makalu La (7400m) and pushed as high as camp 3 at 7800m on Saturday where he bivouacked for the night.

On Sunday 23 May he left at 5.30am and pushed hard for the summit at 8470m which he reached at 2pm. He spent an hour on the summit before returning to camp 3.

"The last push to the summit was hard work and with about 50m to go I was unsure as to whether the weather would hold," said a jubilant Alan from base camp. "I could see Everest very clearly and there was a horrendous storm building up. I had to decide whether to risk continuing to the summit or to back off. I decided to push on. Fortunately the storm missed Makalu and I reached the summit in fairly clear weather. It was fantastic to be on the summit. I knew that I still had to get back down and arriving back at high base camp this morning I could at last relax and celebrate."

"The weather conditions were not as good as two weeks ago. There has been a lot of fresh snow which has made the climb harder and increased the avalanche risk."

The weather had delayed Alan's attempt at the summit and earlier in the month had claimed the life of a Danish climber on Makalu. The same bad weather was also responsible for the death on Everest of Michael Matthews a few days ago.

More details of Alan's climb will be relayed later.