
Attempting the Impossible
'There is always a certain risk in being
alive, and if you are more alive there is
more risk'
Henrik Ibsen
"Be certain
of one thing, climbing six 8000 peaks is
no cakewalk". Above 8000 metres, the
altitude you would normally see jumbo jets
cruising at, the thin air can be a killer.
Low air pressure and lack of oxygen can
quickly lead to physical problems that can
be fatal, and the chances of being rescued
are nil as there are no mountain rescue
services and helicopters cannot fly above
6000 metres.
It's essentially the
spirit of adventure that drives Alan - and
other explorers and pioneers - onwards,
as he explained himself in a recent interview
with Trail magazine "Some may see me
as an eccentric madman, but I just want
to climb mountains. I know it's a tough
challenge to take on".
Alan appreciates that
his expedition needs everything to fall
in to place smoothly for him to acheive
all six 8000 peaks within the climbing season.
"But if the worse comes to the worse,
and say the weather precluded an attempt
on one of the mountains, I'll remember my
old maxim that success is returning and
the summit is only a bonus - no mountain
is worth a life".
Out There
Alan recounts how
it felt to be on the summit of K2
"My head ached
and my body felt like it was being crushed
in a vice. Climbing at extreme altitude
is agony. Torture.
Even through this haze
of suffering, my oxygen starved brain was
aware of the intense seriousness of the
situation. No celebration was due yet. I
was completely alone on the summit of K2,
the worlds second highest and hardest mountain.
People die on the descent in good weather,
with optimum conditions and in daylight.
The light was already fading. I would be
descending in the dark. No mountain is worth
a life, I had to keep telling myself....I
must get down. Returning from an expedition
is a success, the summit is only a bonus.
This was the culmination
of three year's attempts at the 'Savage
mountain'. Now I was there on the summit,
and the most pressing thought in my mind
was that somehow I had to get down.
It really is out there
in the 'Death Zone', at over 8,000 metres
there are no rescue teams and the helicopters
can't reach you. You are alone. There is
more chance of being rescued on the Moon.
As the sun dropped and
the temperature plummeted even lower than
40 below, K2 began to cast a huge triangular
shadow over the earth. In the bitter cold
I realised frostbite was a real danger.
I checked my headtorch and, drawing on the
experience of many years, started the down
climb. Now I had to concentrate on the descent
back to my daughter Fiona. Back to the world".