Diabetes at Altitude - Broad Peak 2004

What is diabetes?
Diabetes happens either when there is a shortage of insulin, a hormone produced by the pancreas, which is needed to move glucose from the bloodstream into the body's cells where it is converted into energy, or when the body's insulin doesn't work properly. Where diabetes exists, this results in excess of glucose in the blood (hyper-glycaemia).

Type 1 diabetes - is an autoimmune condition, resulting in the complete deficiency of insulin

Type 2 diabetes - caused either by a shortage of insulin, or by the body being resistant to insulin.

For more information as produced by Diabetes UK, please check out their website via the link at the foot of this page.

How long have I had diabetes, and what type do I have?
I have had diabetes for about 10yrs (as at 2004), and I have Type 1 - this means that I have to have multiple insulin injections every day. I now use an insulin pump made by Disetronic.Disetronic D-Tron+ insulin pump set at 50% basal rate

How do I manage my diabetes?
I manage my condition by ensuring that I have sufficient background insulin every day (basal insulin), to which I supplement it with a dose of rapid acting insulin every time I eat something (bolus insulin) - a basal/bolus system. I use a Disetronic D-Tron+ (a sub cutaneous continuous infusion) insulin pump, which is attached to me 24hrs a day. This uses solely one type of insulin e.g. Humalog a very rapid acting insulin.

My basal (background) insulin requirements are administered by the pump in very small discrete doses every 3 minutes or so and has been programmed to carefully match my body's requirements.

If I am ill or stressed - I increase my basal dose of insulin. If I am exercising - I generally reduce my basal insulin because the exercise generally has an effect of increasing the body's sensitivity to what insulin there is around, as well as enabling small amounts of glucose to enter from the bloodstream into the cells passively i.e. without the need for insulin.

How will I manage my condition in such extreme environments such as on Broad Peak?
With great care and a lot of planning and lots of prior trial and evaluation!!
I will be ensuring that my insulin is kept cool in hot temperatures, and that it is kept warm in cold temperatures. I will be ensuring that my electronic measuring equipment (e.g. blood glucose monitors, diabetes infusion pump) are likewise not exposed to extreme temperatures or conditions.

I will ensure that I have sufficient batteries for my equipment, and that I have sufficient insulin and glucose test strips for the duration of the trip x100% (in case of unforeseen circumstances etc). Some test strips are very sensitive to temperature, and some are very sensitive to hypoxic conditions - so this is being carefully planned for which meter to take. I will be ensuring that my infusion sites and finger tips are kept as clean as possible to prevent any infection occurring.

What about the effects of exercise on diabetes?
A good book to read on this is Sheri Colbergs "The Diabetic Athlete" - also some of the specific references are detailed on my website.

As mentioned above, aerobic exercise tends to increase your sensitivity to insulin, as well as enabling some glucose to enter passively into cells for use - thus overall in general, a decrease of insulin is required unless this is counteracted by consumption of sufficient carbohydrates. If I am out walking on the mountain all day, I tend to find that my insulin requirements are reduced by 50%. This does vary depending on lots of factors - this is where the trial and error comes in - to see what works best for you to keep your blood sugar levels at a good level.

I never exercise if my blood sugars are very high, or if there are ketones present - as this makes the body go into a feed-forward mechanism where blood sugars can then be further elevated. Many athletes, if they have fairly high blood sugar (but no ketones present) - will often use exercise TOGETHER with a small bolus of rapid acting insulin to bring their blood sugar levels down. There are pros and cons of doing this, especially if you inject more insulin than you need as this will lead to hypoglycaemia.

It is interesting to note that some exercise e.g. rock climbing and weightlifting - can require no reduction in insulin as these sports tend to have a hormonal effect which causes an increase in blood sugar levels.

What about the effects of altitude on diabetes?
You should read some of the recent expedition research that has been written as they provide some excellent advice. Many of these can be found on the www.idea2000.org website (under MORE INFO) as well as being listed on the further reading references on the www.mountain-mad.org website.

It is also worth registering on the discussion group located at http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/madidea/ as there is a wealth of practical advise and information out there.

What diabetes management equipment will I be taking with me?
A lot!
Insulin pump; spare insulin pump; infusion lines and subcutaneous needles for the pump; blood glucose monitors and spare glucose monitors (Roche Accucheck Active - a 5s meter; and Bayer Elite XL - a 30s meter whose strips are unaffected by temperature); sufficient test strips to test between 4-8 times a day; spare batteries; urine ketone test strips; glucagon injections; insulin supplies (e.g. Humalog, Lantus) and a back up system of injection pens and insulin (just in case a vehicle drives over both my pumps rendering them useless!!); glucose supplies; diabetes management equipment temperature labels; log book (to record amount of insulin taken, how much carbohydrate eaten, activity levels or illness etc) .....

What about the rest of the Expedition Team?
Karakorum Broad Peak 2004 team members Marco Peruffo and Daniele Mirolo also have insulin dependant diabetes. Marco uses Lantus and a rapid acting insulin, and Daniele uses a Medtronic insulin pump.

What diabetes problems am I likely to encounter?
Acute mountain sickness (AMS) caused by the high altitude. This combined with dehydration and higher than normal blood sugars can cause diabetic ketoacidosis, so it will be essential to very carefully monitor our blood glucose levels and adjust our insulin doses accordingly. I won't be taking any AMS preventative drugs (e.g. Acetazolamide) as expedition research evidence has identified that this drug can predispose a diabetic to ketoacidosis. Slow gradual acclimatisation is the best and safest way to minimise AMS!

It is easy to confuse symptoms of exhaustion and AMS and other conditions - with low or high blood sugars. I know exactly what my own signs are symptoms of becoming "low" and "high" - and if in doubt, I always check my blood glucose level.
Bad weather (necessitating longer than anticipated stays in high level mountain camps) - we might run out of food and water.......

Equipment not working properly due to extreme temperatures - hopefully our preparations and planning for this will prevent this happening. Luckily my glucose test strips also have a visual gauge on the reverse, so if my meter is no functioning for whatever reason, I will use this. (Of course, in a coloured tent with headtorches on - the colour may well be completely different!)

Possibly retinal haemorrhages (due to the altitude) - I have had my optician check my eyes for any pre-existing damage which could cause problems, and this is advisable for anyone (with or without diabetes).

Infection - caused by untreated water or contaminated food supplies. This can cause nasty sicknesses, resulting in weakness and more importantly dehydration. When you are ill - the last thing you want to think about is self management for diabetes - but this is a must to prevent hyperglycaemia and ketoacidosis occurring.
 
Advice for aspirant climbers with diabetes
Be inspired to learn more about fitting diabetes into life the way you want it to be.
Education about diabetes and exercise - learn about what worst case scenarios you can expect (and why) - learn what you can do to prevent these worst case scenarios from occurring - learn what you can do if a worst case scenario develops - responsible trial and error - good diabetes support team who understand about what you are doing - and having contact with others with diabetes who are doing similar activities successfully. The discussion forum located at http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/madidea/ is a great place to start as well as the MADIDEA mountain meets and conference, which in 2004 is being held out in Vallouise, France. Visit www.mountain-mad.org for more information.
Nikki Wallis
May 25th 2004.
 
Links
www.mountain-mad.org
www.diabetes-exercise.org
www.idea2000.org
www.adiq.org
www.diabetes.org.uk

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