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Tuesday 18 Apr 2000 Kangchenjunga Base Camp
Today was an enforced rest day as a result of a huge dump of snow on the mountain
yesterday afternoon & evening which meant that there was a high risk of avalanche.
Indeed all during the night and during today, particularly once the sun got up today
and weakened the layers bonding the snow together, the avalanches were pouring off
the surrounding peaks. Some very spectacular avalanches fell from the east face of
Jannu, one got airborne and must have travelled nearly a kilometre. We got some good
pictures of it but only on slide film not on the Ricoh digital cameras which we have
been using to download images to the website. (One of the team said that we normally
"av ar lunch" at about 1230 - but we didn't think it was that funny!)

Although it is frustrating being consigned to Base Camp it is not necessarily a bad
thing as we are still not fully acclimatised and it does no harm to spend a day relaxing
at this altitude whilst the many physiological changes to our bodies continue.
On a sad note, one of the team, Sgt Neil Greenwood, has developed a medical problem
which, although not serious, is incompatible with him remaining at Base Camp. We
have therefore arranged for Neil to be flown by helicopter to Kathmandu tomorrow
morning and we hope to see him back here at Base Camp before very long.
This afternoon the expedition leader and Dave Pearce went up to the Korean expedition
camp just above us to discuss with their leader, Mr Um, management of the fixed ropes
on sections of the route up the mountain. Mr Um is a very famous Korean mountaineer
who has climbed 12 of the 14 mountains which are higher than 8000 metres. If he is
successful on Kangchenjunga he will have only K2 left to climb and he intends to
go straight from here to Pakistan to attempt it during June / July.
The fourteen mountains over 8000 metres in height are:
Everest 8848m Nepal
K2 8611m Pakistan
Kangchenjunga 8586m Nepal
Lhotse 8516m Nepal
Makalu 8463m Nepal
Cho Oyu 8201m Nepal
Dhaulagiri 8167m Nepal
Manaslu 8162m Nepal
Nanga Parbat 8125m Pakistan
Annapurna I 8091m Nepal
Gasherbrum I 8068m Pakistan
Broad Peak 8051m Pakistan
Gasherbrum II 8035m Pakistan
Shisha Pangma 8027m Nepal
We agreed with Mr Um that we could continue to monitor the safety of the fixed ropes
and improve the placement of the anchors which hold the ropes to the snow or rock
(e.g. pitons, snow stakes, etc) where we think that safety can be improved. Dave
Pearce is one of a large number of the team who have a particularly well developed
knowledge of anchor placement and Mr Um seemed very pleased to tap into this expertise.
It is important on a big mountain like Kangchenjunga that expeditions agree to work
together on such matters as fixing ropes for their own safety.
Today's picture shows our four Sherpas, Pema (the Sirdar), Nima Dorje, Da Phuri and Pemba Norbu. We will provide more detailed information about these Sherpas in a future diary update as we think that you may be interested in the life of a Sherpa.
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