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Saturday 15 April 2000 - Kangchenjunga Base Camp
Today was a good day for the team as 10 members and 3 of our 4 Sherpas carried loads
all the way to Camp 1 at 6050 metres. The climb of 750m takes between 4 - 5 hours
and starts with 20 minutes of contouring around a small hill under headtorch before
we reach the first ice obstacle which a short jumar soon overcomes. Jummaring involves
the use of a small device we attach to a rope to prevent you slipping back down the
slope. You still have to climb. After this gentle introduction the route continues
up, initially on snow and ice, but then through a 100m rock section. The last 100m
of ascent are on particularly unpleasant snow. Once onto the ridge we pass the Korean
Camp 1 to our own flat campsite with spectacular views of the route ahead to the
summit.
The descent back to Base Camp took almost 2 1/2 hours.
Of those that did not reach Camp 1, the other Sherpa had a blow out on his crampons
and had to return to Base Camp to sort them out; 2 team members were employed on
fixing ropes alongside those of the the Korean's so that we are not wholely reliant
on their charity. The 2 other team members made it most of the way to Camp 1 before
turning round which is not surprising this early in the expedition. This was a good
achievement at such an early stage of the expedition but we are still not properly
acclimatised and there is a danger that the team could run out of steam if they are
worked too hard. We will therefore have a rest day tomorrow with the luxury of breakfast
at 0800 with the sun on us instead of at 0400 wearing down suits in the freezing
temperatures. The reason we go on the mountain at such an early time is to avoid
the heat of the day because as soon as the sun comes up it warms everything up (including
the climbers) but this loosens everything and the snow conditions deteriorate and
the avalanches start. The pictures today shows climbers approaching Camp 1; climbers
at Camp 1 and the route from Camp 1 through the upper icefall towards the summit.
We would like to thank the children of Class Y3LM, Beaconhill School in Cramlington,Northumberland,
who are following the expedition on the web for their good wishes and assure them
that they will be able to catch up with our progress when they return from their
school holiday. We look forward to hearing from them again in two weeks time by
which we should have established Camp 2.
The web seems to be very popular and we are receiving around 20 emails a day. It
is hard work keeping it updated but we believe that the effort is worth it and will
continue to keep our public informed - whoever you are!
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