New Routes From Shane Ohly - South Coast Specialist

Logan Rock

From central seaward facing amphitheatre on your Left Hand Side are steep slabs about thirty feet high

Phobia E7 6c

Climb obvious nose, move left around this, then back right to chicken head. Finish above.

First ascent on-sight solo.

(un-named) E5 6b

On right hand side on same slab, climb furhtest crack to top, finish directly above crux.

First ascent on-sight lead.

Move to the seaward side and slightly lower down. Set behind these slabs is another smaller slab, there is an obvious steep wall marked by a black scar/ hole in bottom right corner.

Wet Dreams E8 6c

Climb the slab directly and centrally to the top (grade is only a tentative guess)

First ascent after top-rope and two failed on-sight attempts. Solo

Carn Barra

Audacity E7 6c (soft)

Steep wall on left of Grande Plage.

First ascent after inspection on top rope. Lead

Pordenack Point

Racing Line E6 6b

Climbs central crack on slab left of pocket full of quartz. A bit crumbly... but exciting.

I top-roped route prior to first ascent. Dave Henderson on-sighted for 2nd ascent, but with fall included!

Fox Promontory

The Bogus Blade E6 6b

Left hand end of Fox Promontory (facing in), obvious knife edged arete.

I on-sighted this route, climb to large hold that doubles as a sling runner. Step right and climb right hand wall and arete. Currently graded E1 5a by Edwards...see what you think!!


Debut Arete E4 6a

My first new route. On-sighted over an afternoon. Climb arete on seaward side of west crag.

Trewavas East Crag

West Wing E25c ***

Brilliant route. Climb crux groove of south groove. Step right, trverse right on to obvious arete, climb this to top. For quality this route is underestimated, real good stuff.


The Serpent E5 6a/b

Brilliant route, weaves its way up arete. Bold mantle shelf at bottom. Runners in column. Step back left and finish for West Wing. Would be good to do it without runners.

On-sighted, another ace route!

Aero Dynamics E7 7a *

Head-pointed (p190 of guide) climb arete immediatly left of the no32 midway up the right hand page. relativly easy moves to a good break, 1.5 dyno to jug at top. fairly steep.

Crash, Boom, Bang. E8 6c **

Climb arete above 'Animated Wall'. Belay on ledge. Climb arete on right hand side to near top then move left to finish.

Top-roped, ab, etc, etc, Soloed eventually.

Gurnards Head

Voodoo Child E6 7c ***

From the left edge of the sea cave lip, traverse right for 20 ft to obvious foot ledge on extreme right hand side of sea cave lip. Follow thin crack upwards for about 20 ft till reaching a good line of holds running diagonally upward from right to left between 'Masterdom' and 'Pure Juice'. This incidently is the line of 'Babolm and back'. A good wire in the top of the 'Masterdom' crack on your right and another wire in a pocket on the left allows you to climb the wall and thin cracks above (crux). After raching a loose band of rock, climb the short groove and small roof above

Fuji Frenzy E7 6c (hard)

From right-angle, lavel with sea cave, step right and climb through overhang/roof. Climb the blank (for gear) loose easy wall above. Climb the obvious arete to finish.

First ascent after inspection on top rope. Lead.

Leviathon E4 6a

From sea cave traverse right facing in, around arete to the main arete. Climb arete to shared belay. Climb wall above between 'Masterdom' and 'Behemoth'.

On-sighted by Mike Raine and myself.

Babolm and Back E3 5c

Traverse 'Art of the slate wall' to arete, continue traversing steep,dark wal other side of arete to corner at small belay ledge. Follow crack left towards shared belay. Follow 'Masterdom' for twenty feet to large belay. Climb steep walls above and slabs, moving leftwards.

On-sighted by Mike Raine and myself.
P.S. you can always try 'Art of Slate!

St Loy

Ohly variation of Finesse E6 6a

As for top pitch of 'Finesse', after crux do not step up but continue traversing right towards an obvious spike. (Sling runner) climb this and the slab above


Snotter E3 6a

About ten feet left of the 'The Hariest', climb slab and then the over-hanging corner. Steep slab wall above, climb through the centre of this. Continue to top. Interesting route, be careful!


Polstoc Point

Amazing Things (originally given E6 6b)

Obvious central arete with thin crack up lower section. Although the route seems to have suffered at the hands of the second ascentionist Mark Edwards, the grade is unsure, E4 6a?. But the route has been cleaned, This was not done prior to the first ascent!!, long story, I won't bore you.

Union Star Cove

14 Lives, 13 Souls E7 6c

Steep slab right of hail. Takes central line.

Head-pointed first ascent.

Coffin Cove (West of St Loy)

Manslaughter E7 6b

Facing out, left hand side of Coffin Cove, near the land side of Cove. Thin crack at base, bold moves after good RP at 12ft. Lead to break/crack at about 30ft, poor runner. Step up and right to crux. Very Bold

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