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New
Routes From Shane Ohly - South Coast
Specialist
 Logan
Rock
From central seaward
facing amphitheatre on your Left Hand
Side are steep slabs about thirty feet
high
Phobia E7 6c
Climb obvious nose,
move left around this, then back right
to chicken head. Finish above.
First ascent on-sight
solo.
(un-named) E5
6b
On right hand side
on same slab, climb furhtest crack to
top, finish directly above crux.
First ascent on-sight
lead.
Move to the seaward
side and slightly lower down. Set behind
these slabs is another smaller slab,
there is an obvious steep wall marked
by a black scar/ hole in bottom right
corner.
Wet Dreams E8
6c
Climb the slab directly
and centrally to the top (grade is only
a tentative guess)
First ascent after
top-rope and two failed on-sight attempts.
Solo
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Carn Barra
Audacity E7 6c
(soft)
Steep wall on left
of Grande Plage.
First ascent after
inspection on top rope. Lead
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Pordenack Point
Racing Line E6
6b
Climbs central crack
on slab left of pocket full of quartz.
A bit crumbly... but exciting.
I top-roped route
prior to first ascent. Dave Henderson
on-sighted for 2nd ascent, but with
fall included!
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Fox Promontory
The Bogus Blade
E6 6b
Left hand end of
Fox Promontory (facing in), obvious
knife edged arete.
I on-sighted this
route, climb to large hold that doubles
as a sling runner. Step right and climb
right hand wall and arete. Currently
graded E1 5a by Edwards...see what you
think!!
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Trewavas
Debut Arete E4
6a
My first new route.
On-sighted over an afternoon. Climb
arete on seaward side of west crag.
Trewavas East
Crag
West Wing E25c
***
Brilliant route.
Climb crux groove of south groove. Step
right, trverse right on to obvious arete,
climb this to top. For quality this
route is underestimated, real good stuff.
On-sighted
The Serpent E5
6a/b
Brilliant route,
weaves its way up arete. Bold mantle
shelf at bottom. Runners in column.
Step back left and finish for West Wing.
Would be good to do it without runners.
On-sighted, another
ace route!
Aero Dynamics
E7 7a *
Head-pointed (p190
of guide) climb arete immediatly left
of the no32 midway up the right hand
page. relativly easy moves to a good
break, 1.5 dyno to jug at top. fairly
steep.
Crash, Boom, Bang.
E8 6c **
Climb arete above
'Animated Wall'. Belay on ledge. Climb
arete on right hand side to near top
then move left to finish.
Top-roped, ab, etc,
etc, Soloed eventually.
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Gurnards Head
Voodoo Child E6
7c ***
From the left edge
of the sea cave lip, traverse right
for 20 ft to obvious foot ledge on extreme
right hand side of sea cave lip. Follow
thin crack upwards for about 20 ft till
reaching a good line of holds running
diagonally upward from right to left
between 'Masterdom' and 'Pure Juice'.
This incidently is the line of 'Babolm
and back'. A good wire in the top of
the 'Masterdom' crack on your right
and another wire in a pocket on the
left allows you to climb the wall and
thin cracks above (crux). After raching
a loose band of rock, climb the short
groove and small roof above
Fuji Frenzy E7
6c (hard)
From right-angle,
lavel with sea cave, step right and
climb through overhang/roof. Climb the
blank (for gear) loose easy wall above.
Climb the obvious arete to finish.
First ascent after
inspection on top rope. Lead.
Leviathon E4 6a
From sea cave traverse
right facing in, around arete to the
main arete. Climb arete to shared belay.
Climb wall above between 'Masterdom'
and 'Behemoth'.
On-sighted by Mike
Raine and myself.
Babolm and Back
E3 5c
Traverse 'Art of
the slate wall' to arete, continue traversing
steep,dark wal other side of arete to
corner at small belay ledge. Follow
crack left towards shared belay. Follow
'Masterdom' for twenty feet to large
belay. Climb steep walls above and slabs,
moving leftwards.
On-sighted by Mike
Raine and myself.
P.S. you can always try 'Art of Slate!
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St Loy
Ohly variation
of Finesse E6 6a
As for top pitch
of 'Finesse', after crux do not step
up but continue traversing right towards
an obvious spike. (Sling runner) climb
this and the slab above
On-sighted
Snotter E3 6a
About ten feet left
of the 'The Hariest', climb slab and
then the over-hanging corner. Steep
slab wall above, climb through the centre
of this. Continue to top. Interesting
route, be careful!
On-sighted
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Polstoc Point
Amazing Things
(originally given E6 6b)
Obvious central
arete with thin crack up lower section.
Although the route seems to have suffered
at the hands of the second ascentionist
Mark Edwards, the grade is unsure, E4
6a?. But the route has been cleaned,
This was not done prior to the first
ascent!!, long story, I won't bore you.
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Union Star Cove
14 Lives, 13 Souls
E7 6c
Steep slab right
of hail. Takes central line.
Head-pointed first
ascent.
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Coffin Cove
(West of St Loy)
Manslaughter E7
6b
Facing out, left
hand side of Coffin Cove, near the land
side of Cove. Thin crack at base, bold
moves after good RP at 12ft. Lead to
break/crack at about 30ft, poor runner.
Step up and right to crux. Very Bold
Back
to start
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