Pembroke '96 new route list from John Arran

St Govans

Paranoid and Sunburnt E6

1. 6b Climb the overhanging crack in the sidewall left of Public Enemy. Hand traverse left to the arete, then up and back right to a peg belay on the lip.
2. 6a The groove above the belay leads to a roof, which is turned on it's right, then back left into an easier slanting groove.
John Arran and Ian Parnell  19/9/96

Space Case E3

1. 5c An independant line between Test Case and Space Cadet. Finish up an obvious crack.
John Arran (solo) 20/9/96

Room Full of Ghosts E1

Abseil from the far end of the lookout fence to protruding rocks at low tide.
1. 5b Traverse left at sea level into the bowels of the crag, then up the chimney through a hole to the half-way terrace. Reverse Zodiac to escape.
Ian Parnell and John Arran  20/9/96


Roof of the World E6/7

1. 6b Start as for Horizontal Pleasures in the back right corner of the cave. Pull on and traverse left for 30 ft, then follow a groove and crack system through the roof to the large capping overhang. Swing left to clip The Family's second peg and finish as for that route.
John Arran  (unseconded) 10/8/96

Range West - Mount Sion Central

A Little Touched E4

1. 4b Traverse left off the end of the platform to a large perched block belay.
2. 5c head for and up the groove directly above, finishing left of the top roof at a 'bomber' belay.
Ian Parnell and John Arran  21/9/96

Quite Absurd E6

Left of the boulder beneath The Scorcher is an obvious crack.
1. 6b Climb the crack for 80 ft, swinging left with difficulty under a roof to belay in the next groove.
2. 5c Straight up to finish.
Ian Parnell and John Arran  21/9/96

Perfectly Ridiculous E7

1. 6b The groove immediately left of The Scorcher is hard to start, hard in the middle, and has a wicked sting in the tail.
John Arran  (unseconded) 21/9/96

Range West - Greenham Common

To Be Or Not To Be? E7

Start from the perched block on the ramp.
1. 6b Pull into a scoop. Head boldly up and right with difficulty to the base of the 3 rd wide crack. Swing right and climb a narrower crack to a good break. Right and blindly up again to finish.
John Arran  (unseconded -1 fall) 22/9/96

Range West - Mount Sion East

Posing for the Artist E4

Take the Greenham Common approach and start as for 29  Palms.
1. 4c Traverse left for 60 ft not far above the sea to a goos ledge down and right of an obvious overhanging grooved arete.
2. 6b Left and then up the grooved arete, with hard but well protected moves just before the angle eases.
John and Ann Arran  10/11/96

Many thanks to John, Ann and Ian for sending in their route info. Ed

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