Park in roadside
car park and walk down to the cove.
At the top of the slipway turn left
on the the coast path. 30 yards (approx)
up the path take the fishermans path
off to the right. This leads to the
outer rocks on the left arm that form
the cove. The first feature is a rocky
outcrop on the left, with an obvious
roof. It is important NOT to climb on
this, as it is covered with greenery
(lichen) and to clean it may cause offence
to the National Trust who own the cove.
Below this outcrop is a sloping slab
with large boulders at the top. Area
1 is on the seaward side of the slab.
Plan View: Easy
way down, directly downwards and not
The routes start
Organ. Diff 25'.
Left hand side of easy way down facing
out. Cracks on the slabby wall - climb
the cracks. F.A. J Dyke, N Barnes.
Knights Climb. Diff
25' The next break in the wall. Climb
the gangway to the overhang, move left
into the crack - continue up this to
the top. J Dyke, N Barnes.
30' 6' right of Knights Climb is a track
of knobbly holds. Follow the holds to
the V groove at the top. R Banaster,
30' Follow the prominent crack to the
top. J Dyke, R Banaster.
Ex-File. Diff 30'
As for Excalibur for 8' then step right
and up the slanting crack. J Dyke, N
D.Tour. Diff 30'
or 40' or 50' This climb has 3 finishes
(1) is starting left of the next wall
after Ex File. There is an obvious traverse
line that starts low and gradually gains
height. It crosses D.Tain and has been
finished by climbing the rest of D.Tain.
Or (2) cross to D.Tain and then, when
below a depression stepping up into
this and so to the top. This is harder
- bordering on Severe! Or to (3) carrying
on with the traverse for 8-10' then
finishing up Bums Rush. J Dyke, M Barnes,
D.Tain. Diff 25'
Follow deep crack to the top. J Dyke,
Bums Rush. 30' Severe
Start under small roof 10' right of
D.Tain. Climb crack (thin) up to overhang.
There is a good hold on the lip of the
overhang. Surmount this and follow slab
to the top. J Dyke, R Banaster
Go to the top of
the inclined slab pass a large perched
rock round the back, and a ledge slopes
down. Walk down the swing over the edge
and into a shallow trough. Right of
this (facing you) is the easy way down
to Hornet. Go left for Area 3. From
the top of the easy way down you can
see a seamed face over the on the right.
Scramble down the rocks and cross to
the sloping slabs at the base.
Hornet. V.S. 40'
Start up the easy slab to the wall,
gain the central crack and aim for the
V slot at the top. R Banaster, J Dyke
Race Against Tide.
V Diff 40' Where easy way down stops
this climb starts. You have come down
a pocked wall/slab. Above this is a
chimney/fault climb up to the bottom
of the chimney and enter it. Climb to
the top. J Dyke, S Reynolds
Dog-Leg. V Diff
35' Left hand side of easy way down.
The slightly overhanging arete is climbed
to the top. J Dyke, S Reynolds
There is a large
pool under the face taken by Dog-Leg.
The next route is at the point where
the pool narrows 10' right (facing in).
To the right of A-Snip is an inset corner
and roof. Taken by Rangamutti.
A-Snip. 30' Severe
Follows a line of holds up the wall
to the left of Rangamutti. Dr.A Partington,
Severe Start beneath the corner where
the top curves over into a roof. Climb
the wall until under the roof. A bold
step across reaches the gash which is
the top of Short, Back & Sides.
Follow to the top. J Dyke, S Reynolds
Short, Back &
Sides. 25' Severe This follows the well
defined crack 4' right of Rangamutti.
D Hannigan, J Dyke, S Reynolds
Easy way down, down
the steep ramp between Short, Back &
Sides and the gangway wall. Rock pool
at the bottom. Next routes start above
Gangway. 35' Diff
Climb on to the large step and go leftwards
up the inclined ledge, to a short vertical
head wall. Climb this in the corner.
J Dyke, M Barnes
Diff Climb on to the step as for Gangway
6' along go up the wall aiming for the
small overhang. This has been taken
directly, to the left and also on the
right. Go up to the ledge. R Banaster,
Minks Fart. 45'
Diff Start as for previous routes but
aim for right hand edge. Climb the edge
and when the angle eases traverse left
to the bulging wall. Climb this in the
middle. J Dyke, S Reynolds
Nicks Niche. 35'
Severe This takes the corner right of
previous route. The rock changes from
golden granite to black - a dark dank
corner - but a real gem! Follows the
corner from base to top. N Barnes, J
Diff An alternative to Nicks Niche -
it shares the stepping stone across
the pool ar the bottom! On arrival on
some poor holds move slightly R and
up the broken face of Nicks Niche. The
route arrives at the top using the final
holds of the previous route. J Dyke,
40' Diff Starting above the pool at
the point where Area 3 turns into Area
4. A sharply defined edge marks the
introduction to the slab. Horse Feathers
follows the edge, with an awkward, balancy
move across the pool. Aim for a prominent
foor hold - and little for the fingers.
Failure is a ducking - at least. Swing
onto the foothold and follow the edge
to the top. N Barnes, J Dyke
The next four routes
have a common start, due to the intrusion
of the rock pool. The back of the pool,
which is not slab, rears up into a vertical
tower which is home to routes of earlier
vintage: 'Thirty Something' and 'They
do at that age'.
Ducksoup. 60' V
diff About 15' right of the slab the
pool narrows and it is possible to step
across. There is a ledge sloping leftwards
and downwards from this point. You are
standing under the tower of ochre coloured
rock, and the traverse leads to the
bottom of the slab, in a corner. Belay
here. Step down to the left, and then
step across on to the slab. There are
shallow twin cracks and these are followed
to the top. J Dyke, N Barnes
A Day at the Races.
60' V Diff Start as for Ducksoup and
aim for the corner of the overlap. Climb
this, and when the ledge is gained cross
it, and up the central portion of the
slab. J Dyke, N Barnes
Groucho. 60' Severe
Instead of stepping down from the end
of the ledge, look up. Above is a slab
with a small overlap following. The
corner makes for a Groucho -esque type
stance, and what follows deserves a
cigar! The corner is climbed, and a
ledge appears. Cross the ledge or belay
here, befor tackling the wall at the
back of the ledge. There are two cracks,
both have been climbed. The right crack
is harder. In the RH corner is a slabby
arete at about Diff Standard. J Dyke,
Rubble Trouble. 70' Severe A loose climb
in two parts. The top is the worst.
From the common start of the previous
routes, instead of traversing L go straight
up the slab to the (almost) ledge. cross
this to the bay and take the right hand
gently overhanging corner. Up this to
finish. R Banaster, J Dyke
Iron Filings. 50'
V Diff At the point where the rock pool
runs out and about 10' right of the
common start there is a standing block.
The route climbs this to the sloping
ledge. Across to the R are some metal
pikes climb past these to the right
and follow the cracks to a bulge. Surmount
this awkwardly, and then to the top.
J Dyke, S Reynolds
Reached by scrambling
over the black rocks leading to the
seaward side. There is a trench of sloping
sides leading to the tip of the cove.
Once through the trench look left. The
next routes start here.
40' Diff The easy way down scrambles
from the trench to a seawashed ledge.
On the left is a black undercut slab,
above is a constricted chimney. Climb
the slab, wriggle up the chimney to
belay on blocks. J Dyke, S Reynolds
Tales of a Rusty
Tramline. 70' Diff The next feature
of this area is a prominent twin track
of knobbly rock. Follow the tracks to
the top. J Dyke, S Reynolds
80' Diff Cross the seawashed ledge to
a corner in the middle of the barnacle
covered rocks. There is a chute that
looks very crumbly, with a slab on the
left. Climb the slab, aiming for the
nose of rock pointing slightly downwards.
Pass this on the left climbing onto
a ledge. Cross the ledge to a slab,
climb this to a runnel and ascend to
the top. J Dyke, S Reynolds Out of the
Shadow. 60' 4b Severe Right of Postmans
knock is a large buttress. Cross the
seawashed ledge, take the Right slanting
crack. Good protection and jams in the
middle, follow corner crack to the top.
M Bolland, R Mitchell 22/2/96
and short routes are possible and a
lot has not been recorded.