Berwick Law Quarry

Traditional route information from Adrian Plumb

Berwick Law Quarry can be found just outside the town of Berwick, follow the A198 from Edinburgh to Berwick then follow the signs for the 'Law' from Berwick centre. The Law is a plug of volcanic rock sitting peacefully on the outskirts of Berwick, apart from the Quarry area there are also other sections of good rock, Adrian will be sending in other routes for these areas soon.

Berwick Law started as a Sport Climbers crag only, but after a little cleaning and trundling it now provides over 30 lines from Moderate to E1.

It looks out over a fine, open area and has a natural feel with good views. The area has a fine micro-climate and as it never rains the crag is always dry !!!!!!

Due to the nature of the rock several routes have minimal protection, on the 'Westy' slab it is absent altogether. On 'three' butress a peg has been placed allowing the routes to be enjoyed in relative safety. The 'westy' slab however remains peg free for those with a steady head and sticky footwear.

Many thanks to Adrian for Sending in these routes. Ed

1. Diarrhoea 15m Severe 4b -* (minus one star)
A difficult start up the short steep wall leads to easy ground. Follow up the crack and arete to the top. Either finish over loose blocks or move right to a grassy escape. Not a very nice route.
M Balharry & A Plumb 5/5/96

2. Up the Spout and Out 12m Hard V.diff
Up the V chimney and either straight up the wall behind (stepping left at the top) or move left and up the blocks. Huge jugs to finish.
M Balharry & A Plumb 5/5/96

3. Obelix Goes North 15m V Diff.**
Follow the arete all the way to the top. this route has runners, and holds! Lovely.
M Balharry & A Plumb 5/5/96

4. The Menhir 6m V Diff
Up the arete of the detached block. Nice.
M Balharry & A Plumb 5/5/96

5. Bored Stupid 15m Severe 4b.
Either follow the line up the middle of the slab or go over the overlap to the runner then up the slab, runner at top. Move up then left at the grassy shelf. Friend runner in the broom, a long reach left. Go up the blocks them move right onto the last slab (easy escape by stepping left) to a difficult pull up and over to better ground.
M Balharry & A Plumb 3/6/96

6. Sod's Law 20m VS 5a.**
Start at the base of the slab. move up on small holds following the diagonal line, Micro nut at the top. Move up then step right to reach the short wall. Go straight up this and mantel over top. Step up to the crack below the peg, climb directly up to the peg and over the top (crux).
A varied route in three sections of increasing difficulty, but following the cleanest section of rock.
M Balharry & A Plumb 3/6/96

7. Eejits Wall VS 5a*
Start as for 6. At the top of the slab move left and climb up to large ledge. From below the parallel cracks go directly up and pass the peg (not a nice move). Also possible to climb up to the left of the peg up a blank face.
M Balharry, A Plumb & A Scourgall 16/5 96

8. Needs Gear 14m VS 4c
Move up the yellow slab (crux) to the horizontal break. From the big ledge follow nice big block to the short, final wall. Pull over to finish.
M Balharry & A Plumb 5/5/96

9. Technical Ecstacy 16m VS 4c*
Start up the thin slab on the right side of the word 'Westy'. Go staight up (thin) to a good ledge, up to the top arete and follow a line of holds just to the right of it to the top. finish up the steep wall woth care.
M Balharry & A Plumb 2/6/96

10. Mr Slappy 16m VS 4c**
Climb the slab keeping just left of centre. A half-height, half hearted runner can be found to the far left. Move back to centre to finish trending right. Slap your way up to the turf to top.
A Plumb & M Balharry 25/4/96

11. Neck it or Deck it 16m HVS 4c***
A direct line up the right side of the slab to the right of the easy crack (exposed). move up following the small pockets towards the large hold, straight up to a well brushed hold to finish on small holds (no runners possible).
A Plumb & M Balharry 30/4/96

12. Traverse of the Sods 25m 4c
Start at the bottom left up the slab (runner at 3m) move right coming across lichenous holds up & right to the top.

13. The Path Moderate
Up the line of cut steps to the top or, better;

14. Traverse in from the left side of the upper band of grass.

The following routes are nicer than they look, with a peg in the slab at three-quarters height for protection.

15. Jennifer 20m MVS 4b*
Start at the lower left side of the buttress, follow the blunt arete. At 3/4 height move right to clip the peg then move back to finish direct.
M Balharry & A Plumb 3/5/96

16. Grasp the Nettle 20m MVS 4b**
A central line up the buttress following the thin leftward trending crack to the top. finish straight up from the peg.
A Plumb & M Balharry 3/5/96

17. Sarah 20m MVS 4c**
This follows the thin right hand parllel crack. An easy start leads to a series of thinner moves following the small holds up to the top.
A Plumb & M Balharry 5/5/96

18. Peglust 20m Severe 4a
Follows the right arete moving left below the big grassy ledge. Follow round this & finish above and to the right
A Plumb 3/5/96

19. Slab & Tickle 5m V Diff
The easy slab on the left

20.Vital Statistics 10m E1 5b***
Takes a line up the left side of the slab. Start at the left, move up to the horizontal break. Move on to the undercling, up & right to side pulls to gain height to clip peg. move right into shallow scoop up small holds to the split boulder. More strenuous than its neighbours
A Plumb & M Balharry 6/5/96

21. Variations
a. Start up the blank slab direct to the shallow scoop. 1/5/96
b.Finish on the left blunt arete. 11/5/96
Both variations do not add particularly to the grade.
A Plumb & M Balharry 6/5/96

22. Aldeberan 10m E1 5a**
The central line up the slab. Small pockets appear just in time to get you to the top. This route can be protected by the use of a long sling in the peg over to the left.
A Plumb & M Balharry 6/5/96

23. The Grim Rurper 10m E1 5a
This takes a line on the right side of the slab. Directly up to the scoop & reach a higher pocket (for the tall) or mantel (for the short) to get to a better angled rock. move left to cracked boulder.
A Scougall, M Balharry & A Plumb 30/4/96

24. Left Overs 10m HVS 4c
The arete is followed to the top on small incuts. A friend can be placed at the top to protect the moves left to escape. Take Care!
Carole McDiarmid & A Plumb 11/5/96

Hadrians Wall
This is a small compact wall bounded by a slab on the right just before the loose overhanging rock. The finish of all these routes is unpleasant with loose stones, so a long sling from the fence to the top of the crag to give a final safe clip would be wise.

25. Crescent Moon Rising 6m V Diff
The obvious lay away is used to gain a ledge, follow the ramp up and left to finish up the jugs.
A Plumb & M Balharry 21/5/96

26. A Gualing Crack 6m Severe 4c
Climb the awkward crack into the niche & up to better holds.
A Plumb & M Balharry 21/5/96

27. Getafix 6m Severe 4c
Follow a line trending left, tricky!
A Plumb & M Balharry 21/5/96

28. Hadrians Wall 6m Mild Severe 4a*
The wall to the left of the arete is climbed on rather nice small holds.
A Plumb & M Balharry 21/5/96

29. Caesar's Nose 7m V Diff
Up the arete direct. A long reach right enables protection to be placed in the crack.
A Plumb & M Balharry 21/5/96

30. Finis Horribilis V Diff
The left trending ramp is climbed on its right side (large friend pro) to an awkward but customary crap finish.
A Plumb & M Balharry 14/5/96

31. Anarchic Law E1 5c**
The wall to the far right side of the crag with an 'A' at its base. Take the thin left trending crack line to the peg. Step roght & finish over the buldge about 2m below the top of the crag. A bit harder than it looks.
M Balharry & A Plumb 17/5/96

Back to Start