Aviary Quarry Topo
Nr St Helens, Lancs

The Aviary Quarry lies in Taylor Park not far from St Helens town centre. the aviaries were burned down a couple of years ago and the area fenced off. access seems to be tolerated providing you keep a low profile - i.e. use the belays near the edge and no large noisy parties.

The routes are cleaning up with traffic to give climbing which can be as good as Pex hill; however, the load bearing quality of the Sandstone is definitely more like Frogsmouth (i.e. be careful).

This, combined with the lack of natural protectionand the hard nature of the climbing (generally 5c and above) means that bolts have been used to protect the hard moves. ( the old bolts have been removed and replaced with 6" 'bombers'.) However, the climbs are not clip-ups and can still be serious propositions. If in doubt then top-rope first.


Routes

1. Heckle and Jeckyll E3 5c
Right hand start (1b) driest. Use undercut low in back of pod to clip first bolt. E2 if  bolt on 1c clipped.

1c. Stone the Crows E4 6b
Much harder version of 1.

2. Aviary Crack E2 5b
Sometimes wet patch but good nuts & friends. A nice traditional crack.

3. Daffy Duck E3 5c
An enjoyable sandstone classic. Save some bread for the park ducks on the way out!

4. Roadrunner E3/E4 6a
A sustained and fingery race for the top. E3 if move R. (i.e. sensibly) to clip 2nd bolt. Good climb.

5. Tweety Pie E4 6a
Leaving the sanctuary of Tweety's cage is the psychological crux but hardest move at top bolt!

6. Foghorn Leghorn E4 6a
Good side pulls on Foghorns thighs, again crux at top bolt.

7. Hawkeye E4 6b
Good eyesight needed to spot the tiny holds.

8. Birdman E4 6a
Good after a damp start.

9. Maltese Falcon E4 6a
See 8. !!!

10. Cockoo's nest E3 5c
The name relates to the tottering ledge on the !st ascent. A very good route now.

11. Dead Parrot E3 5c
Don't fall of your perch.

12. Aviary Corner E1 5b
Climb carefully to bolt at half-height then good nuts/friends in top corner crack.